My Trails

Bus tour

While in Fairbanks I read about a tour bus trip to the Arctic Circle. I figured it would be a good way to save some wear and tear on Minnie and enjoy a comfortable trip to a place where in summer the sun never sets. So on Thursday, June 29, I road Honda at 6 am to the North Alaska Tour Company and met Rachael, our guide and bus driver for the next 16 hours.

Dalton Highway

There are many stories about the rough condition of the Dalton Highway (or Haul Road as it is still known by), and hearing about the washboards, frost heaves, tire cutting gravel, and narrow, steep sections, convinced me to take the tour bus and save Minnie the punishment. From Fairbanks the highway north is called the Elliott Highway for about 80 miles and then becomes the Dalton for another 400 miles to its terminus at Prudhoe Bay and the Arctic Ocean. Our tour would only be traveling about 200 miles north to the imaginary line of the Arctic Circle.

The real reason for the highway.

As we drove north, Rachael told us the history of the highway and its relationship to the Alaskan Pipeline. There was a lot of debate about putting an ugly pipe through the pristine wilderness of Alaska, but in the 70’s during the Middle East oil embargo and long lines at the gas pumps, America’s addiction to fuel finally pushed through approval for a pipe to carry oil from the newly discovered oilfields at Prudhoe Bay to the port of Valdez.

Denali in the distance

At a pullout a few miles from Fairbanks, we had a good view of Denali and everyone disembarked to take a few pictures. The day was cloudy but very clear. We could see long distance without the sun making us reach for sunglasses. It was probably a good condition to travel in.

Back home we would say “hillbilly” but here it’s a homestead.

Our next stop was at the homestead of a family named Joy. The couple came to Fairbanks years ago, built their cabin and homestead north of town, and eventually had 23 children. The stop is now a rest stop for the tour busses, and of course, everyplace we stopped had souvenirs for sale.

Along with expert information from our tour guide, Rachael, we also watched two videos . One was about building the oil pipeline, and the other was some general history and stories of the Arctic Wilderness. We drove on taking in the beauty of the Boreal Forest until we arrived at the Yukon River. Most of the people on the bus had purchased bagged lunches at the River Crossing Cafe but I brought enough food with me that I didn’t need to spend $12 for a sandwich and chips.

As we drove further north the trees gave way to tundra. When you are between mountain ranges the Alaska terrain is rolling hills for as far as you can see. It is a vast and distant landscape. It makes you feel pretty small.

I made it!

Eventually we arrived at the Arctic Circle. We had to perform a silly ceremony of crossing the line and we each received a certificate of our outstanding achievement. It was really quite easy; I just let the bus and Rachel do all the work to get there.

Feeling permafrost.

On the way back we stopped and walked out into the mossy tundra. Everyone got to dig a few inches below the moss and feel the icy layer of permafrost – that was pretty cool. Then it was a long return back down the highway. We stopped at the Yukon Crossing for dinner and then a few people slept as we bounced back into Fairbanks.

Only bridge across the Yukon River.

I can say I thoroughly enjoyed the tour. I didn’t get all the way to the Arctic Ocean but I did get to a special place. We saw a bear and a moose; we saw the Brooks Range in the distance; we touched permafrost; and we felt and learned the history of northern Alaska. It was a good day on the Dalton Highway.

Actually getting a few TV stations here.

I unloaded Honda this morning and took a ride around town. I wanted to see where Pioneer Park is so I would know where to go next. I don’t like to stay in a Walmart parking lot more than a couple days; it just feels wrong. I guess there is no problem with parking here, there are even RV spaces drawn out and labeled on the blacktop.

The weather has been just about perfect. I hope that doesn’t mean it will rain the whole time I go to see Denali. I have to wait here until Monday to get some brake pads put on Minnie and I’m waiting for my registration to come in the mail.

It has been easy to learn how to get around in Fairbanks. This afternoon I rode to the Regal Cinema and went to see the new Pirates of the Caribbean movie. It was OK but it seems like they are getting more violent. Tomorrow I may check out the Arctic Circle Tour.

Tanana River.

To keep mosquitos from attacks.

I left Clearwater Recreation Area near Delta Junction and drove ten miles north to Delta State Historical Park. I had read there was a campground there that was only $10 and had a dump station and potable water. The campground was nothing more than a parking lot and the dump cost extra. There was, however, a free historical display of buildings and artifacts and stories of the old roadhouse.

Rika’s Roadhouse

Rika’s Roadhouse was built in 1903 and acquired by Rika in 1923. Being on the Tanana River the roadhouse was an important crossroads for early trappers, prospectors, and military men headed north from Valdez. I enjoyed looking at all the artifacts and reading the stories of yesteryears. In one building there were many old tools and gadgets I remember seeing in grandpa’s barn and garage.

Alaska Pipeline over Tanana River.

I moved up the road a mile and stopped to look at the Alaska Pipeline where it crosses the Tanana River. Running 800 miles from Prudhoe Bay to Valdez, crossing three mountain ranges, and built for a measly $5,000,000,000, the pipeline is quite a marvel. Many places the pipe had to be raised above ground on stilts to keep the hot oil from melting the permafrost. Here at the Tanana River was one of the longest spans – 1200′.

I ran into more construction a few miles before a town called North Pole. After sitting and waiting for the pilot car for 20 minutes, I didn’t feel like stopping at North Pole. And anyway, a town named North Pole smacks of the idea of bangels and bobbles and tourists.

Air Force base

I passed Eielson Air Force Base a few miles before Fairbanks. The runway is fairly close to the highway and I could see fighter jets and large tanker refulers on the flight line. This is probably a pretty important base this close to Russia, but I suppose no one would want to think about that. There were signs all along the highway saying – NO STOPPING, NO PARKING, NO PHOTOGRAPHY.

I’m parking at Walmart for a couple days and then I will probably move to Pioneer Park. I have an appointment in a week to get my brakes replaced so I will be here long enough to see the sights.

Back in civilization!

Dumpster

It was an exciting day today. I walked my garbage down to the dumpster.

Alaska Highway northern terminus.

It rained all night and for most of the morning. The gravel parking area where I stayed overnight had puddles filled with water when I got up, so I hung out and waited for the rain to let up before pulling out. I could have stayed right where I was but I decided to find a place near Delta Junction.

Later that morning I drove the 60 miles north to Delta Junction and found a state forest recreation area that was only $15 a night and had good cell signal. I paid for two nights just to let the rainy weather blow through and give me a rest from driving.

Clearwater State Rec Area.

This campground, called Clearwater Recreation Area, is nestled into trees with a lake running along beside. It is quite small and has filled to max tonight. I went down to the hand pump to get water, and what came out of that well didn’t look like clear water to me!

In the afternoon the sun came out and I made a trip into Delta Junction to visit the Visitors Center and see what else was in town. Along the way I saw a moose beside the road and instinctively slowed down to keep watch for wildlife.

The Visitors Center had some displays about the Alaskan Pipeline and the official signpost signifying the end of the Alaskan Highway. I talked with the person inside and got some ideas about camping and viewing the Pipeline. Those will be for another day.

Size of oil pipeline over years.

Alaskan Mosquitos

Delta Junction has a nice supermarket and I picked up some lettuce, potatoes, and fruit, all things I have been hungry for but didn’t want to buy in small towns.

Four foot satellite dish.

On the way back from town I took a picture of the satellite dishes they use up here. They are pointed low on the horizon and are quite a bit larger than what we use down home.