North Rim

July 13th, 2016
Donna

Donna

My sister Donna drove her motorhome to Flagstaff a few days ago and camped three days with me in the Coconino National Forest. While she was there we rode on Honda up to Lowell Observatory and took a guided tour of the restored original telescope. It was quite interesting but we both agreed the tour guide was a little too talkative. He told us detailed history of the Lowell family way back to the 1600’s. He also talked way to much about how the observatory was run on donations, and how much he would appreciate it if we could leave some money in the box on our way out. We figured the price we paid for admission was a little high and we had donated enough. We didn’t stay too long because we were both hungry and we worried that Hanna would be hot in Donna’s motorhome.

We stopped at Wendy’s for a baked potato and then headed back to our camp. It was still cool in Donna’s motorhome so Hanna was fine.

North Rim overlook

North Rim overlook

On Sunday we drove to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, stopping briefly at Marble Canyon and waving hello to the Vermillion Cliffs as we drove by. The temperature through there was brutal so we made tracks to the high country of the North Kaibab National Forest as quick as we could.

The worst part of the drive was the wind. I would never intentionally drive in wind as bad as we saw today. Both our rigs are pretty high-profile and the gusts knocked us around all the way here. The last part of the drive was directly into the wind and I’m sure my gas mileage was cut in half. We were both exhausted by the time we found our campsite and could finally relax.

We are only a few miles from the National Park entrance so Honda will take us the rest of the way in. While we were camping in Flagstaff, we ran into a couple that I had met before in Quartzsite. They had planned to meet us here at the North Rim but so far we can’t find them. There is no cell service here.

When we arrived at our little campsite here in the Kaibab and set up camp, Donna remarked, “No wonder you don’t want to break camp and move every day. You have a lot of stuff to set up!”

She is right. After I find my parking spot I have to get out and assemble my satellite dish, wire and aim it, then carry my solar panels out and run the wires, weight everything down with rocks so they don’t blow away, hook up my propane extend-a-tank, and finally unload my motorcycle. After that I can start working on the inside. She sets out her rug and chair and is pretty much done.

We did meet up with our friends at the Canyon and they joined us for two days at our camp. Buffalo hunting season starts on Friday so it was time to get out of here and head north. Next stop Bryce Canyon National Park.

Walnut Canyon National Monument

June 27th, 2016
Rain port

Rain port

Flagstaff has a few interesting tourist sites in and around the city. I have been to most of them on past visits but I find there are reasons to see them again. First of all, the places are fun to experience again, and secondly, I am building my trust back in Honda as I ride all over the area. And so when Richard suggested we meet up and ride to Walnut Canyon National Monument, I was happy to agree.

We decided to meet at Del Taco, have lunch, and then ride a back road the few miles to Walnut Canyon. It was only about 10 miles for me to our meeting place, but Richard and Dianna had a long trip from their home. We had a nice lunch and then headed down historic Route 66 going east out of town.

Route 66 parallels Interstate 40, and because it is not a main route anymore, understandably gets less attention from the maintenance crews. The road was very rough in places where the blacktop was broken and chipped. I was following Richard and Dianna down the highway when all of a sudden I saw them hit a particularly bad hole in the pavement. Richard’s travel mug bounced out of its holder and hit the road with a burst of liquid and flying parts. We came to a quick stop, parked along the road , and searched for several minutes for the missing lid. Richard finally located the lid up a bank and fit the damaged but usable pieces back together. We took it a little slower the rest of the way.

Walnut Canyon is a preserved site of ancient Anasazi cliff dwellings. The canyon is littered with dozens of stone structures built hundreds of years ago under the natural eroded cliffs. The park service maintains a walkway down 240 steps to a circular path where visitors can see close up the places the Indians lived. It is quite interesting to imagine what it would be like to live the way they did.
The problem with 240 steps down is that they must be climbed again to return to the visitors center. The afternoon was hot and I had forgotten to bring my water bottle. We all were feeling pooped by the time we reached the top. We spent a few minutes looking at the displays in the visitors center and then rode back into town for ice cream. It rained on us briefly on our way back but it actually felt good. We skipped Rt. 66 on our return and rode the busy but smooth Interstate highway.

It was a fun afternoon. Good times!

Flagstaff

June 26th, 2016
Trash

Trash

You never know what you’ll find while out walking in the woods. The other day I discovered an abandoned, family dump area only a few hundred yards from my camp that held the remains of discarded metal parts and tin cans. A lot of the trash was remains of some broken appliance or car part, but most of it was tin cans of the beverage type with two triangular holes punctured in the top (the sight of these always takes me back to another time.)

Probably the only thing that will recycle this boat is fire, but the forest is slowly swallowing up the rest of the trash pile, covering the metal with falling needles and rusting away the once treasured life of the object, and in a few more decades nothing visible will remain. It always makes me think of the answer an archeologist gave when asked how we know so much about past civilization. That answer he gave was: “We dig through their trash.”

When we lived on the farm we had a place back in the woods where all the trash was dumped. Every few weeks we would load up the wagon with discarded cans, bottles, broken plates, and useless trash that wouldn’t burn, and carry it back to a corner of the property and toss it over a bank. In the woods the trash was mostly out of sight and definitely out of mind. It is what all farmers did and probably do today.

I am camped in the Coconino National Forest just west of Flagstaff, AZ. I have my motorcycle back now and it seems to be running fine. After all this time waiting for it to be fixed it turns out that the main problem was just a faulty ignition switch. The good news is that the repairs were all covered by the warranty. The bad new is that this long wait has interrupted my plans for the summer and caused me to rethink what I will do.

It has been quite hot here in Flagstaff this week. The temperature has climbed into the 90’s each day and I would like to find a place a few degrees cooler. I will probably limit my travels this summer to the four states connected at a common point. There are lots of places in Colorado and New Mexico I have not seen, and I’m sure I can find interesting and temperate places to camp. I had planned on doing a lot of traveling this summer, but I have changed my mind. Even though the price of fuel is low, putting gas in this motorhome can quickly eat through my budget.

Mormon Lake Hike

June 20th, 2016
AZT

AZT

It all started a few years ago when Daryl and I backpacked to the bottom of Grand Canyon. It was then that I realized this trail through the Canyon was part of the famous Arizona Trail, a continous footpath running 800 miles across Arizona from the Huachuca Mountains on the border of Mexico to the Kaibab Plateau in Utah. I remember thinking then that it would be neat to hike the whole thing.

Since our hike of the Grand Canyon, I have completed about 450 miles of the AZT and Daryl has joined me for the last 100 miles of the trail. I’m not sure if I will ever complete the whole thing but having Daryl to hike with has made it a lot easier to keep going.

Because of the fires in Arizona, the blistering weather, and availability of shuttles from Richard, we have had to skip around a bit. This weekend we hiked a 33 mile section that goes from below Mormon Lake to a few miles south of Flagstaff. Except for a few hills, the terrain was fairly level, and we had little trouble finding good water along the way.

We spent the first night at a forest campground that was quite expensive but reasonable when we factored in my senior pass and split the bill. It was nice to have a picnic table for meals, water that we didn’t have to filter, and a flush toilet.

The second night we stayed beside a pretty meadow with a spring just a hundred yards down a side trail. During the night an elk came close to our tents and bugled a few times to make sure we were awake.

Because of long mileage on the second day, the third day was short and we arrived back at our car by 10:00 am. I think we were smart to wake each day at 5 am and get an early start before it got hot. Most of the trail was in pine forest, but by mid day the sun would find its way through the branches, looking for skin we missed when applying sunscreen.

I felt good on this hike. We both had some tender feet from the rocky trail on the first day and I was attacked by malicious mosquitos on the second morning, leaving me scratching my legs throughout the day. But we both had a good appetites and even slept well through the night. And even though I understand the physics behind it, it always amazes me what a temperature swing there is in an Arizona night. When you crawl in your tent at bedtime, it is too warm to do anything but lay atop your sleeping bag, and through the night you gradually bundle inside the bag until the chill of morning makes you reluctant to even crawl out.

I think they have finally fixed my motorcycle and I will make a mad dash into town to pick it up next week. Phoenix is expecting temperatures close to 120 degrees this weekend so I don’t want to tarry long in town. I’m not sure of my plans for this summer but I will definitely look for cooler weather.

Backpacking the Rim

May 22nd, 2016
First Campsite

First Campsite

Over this last weekend Daryl and I did a 36 mile, backpacking hike on the Arizona trail. It turned out to be quite challenging for me. My knee has been feeling strong with very little pain, and so I though a weekend hike would be a fairly easy trek. What I underestimated was the strenuous terrain of the trail, the sad fact I’m quite out of shape, and I hate to admit it but I’m getting older.

I’m still waiting for my motorcycle to be fixed. The good news is that they think they know what the problem is, ordered the parts, and should have it fixed by the end of this week. With all this waiting in Arizona, Daryl and I decided to hike a section of the Arizona Trail from Pine Trailhead to Blue Ridge Ranger Station where Richard and Dianna would shuttle us back to our vehicles.

Daryl met me at the trailhead in the afternoon on Thursday and we hiked less than 5 miles to a place called Bear Springs. We found the tank below the spring empty but we were able to walk up the soggy grass above the trail, dig a hole, let the water run until it was clear, and filter enough for the night. I was already tired and lacked an appetite but I managed to eat part of a Mountain House dinner. We were in bed at dark and I slept hardly at all.

The next day we walked 12 miles to to the base of the Mogollon Rim to a place called Washington Park Trailhead. With very little sleep the night before and the constant climbing over hills and through ravines, I basically “hit a wall” when we arrived there. We filtered water from the East Verde and picked out a place to camp that was not great but worked for the night. I had just enough room to set up my tent and Daryl cowboy camped under the stars. I ate very little and was in bed at 7pm.

The next morning I felt somewhat better after a good nights sleep and we set off to climb what seemed like a 60 degree slope for two miles. The two good things about climbing to the top of the rim were the facts that only about a mile was rediculously steep and the wind was blowing hurricane force at our backs, helping us along.

The winds had been strong for several days but nothing compared to the way it howled on the face of the rim. Once we crested the top and hiked back into the Ponderoda Pine forest, the wind still gusted but the trees blocked much of it.

Through the forest the walking was fairly easy. A lot of the path was level and the pines had laid down a carpet of soft needles for us to walk on. We made camp Saturday night in a steep valley called Clear Creek. There was no water where the trail crossed so we explored up the riverbed until Daryl found a small pool at the edge of the gravel. The pool was full of polliwogs, but we filtered them out and the water tasted surprisingly good.

We made camp on a grassy shelf by the riverbed, Daryl used his satellite phone to let family know we were okay and our ETA. We ate a good dinner and were in bed before dark.

Sunday on the AZT gave us only one climb out of the canyon. We took our time knowing we would reach Richard and Dianna midday. The trail was good and we arrived at their home before noon.

I had a good time even though it was tough. Except for the constant wind the weather was great. We had to wear a jacket in the morning but as soon as we started hiking a t-shirt and shorts were our attire. We met one thruhiker. A lady named Anne who we caught early on the third day. We also met a man that rode his bike from Ajo and pushed it up the rim.

Thanks to Richard and Dianna for a welcome shower, a delicious lunch, and a generous shuttle back to our vehicles. They have always been my “Trail Angels” for hiking the AZT.

I will hang out up here in the high country till this weekend and then drive down to Mom’s birthday party. Then I’m hoping my Honda will be ready to travel new places and find more adventure.