Fort Apache

November 8th, 2012

Yesterday, I drove north through Salt River Canyon and turned southeast along a narrow, lonely stretch of road to Fort Apache. The Apache Indian Reservation is a little different than other national forests – they like visitors to pay at every stop. I wanted to visit the Kinishba Ruins, but after learning they were several miles up a dirt road, required a permit to walk through, and would cause me to backtrack from town, decided instead to tour their museum. It was only $3 and worth not a penny more. Most of the exhibits were about ceremonial dances and culture. I like many types of music but I just can’t get into the Native American chants.

I drove north a few miles and pulled down a back road where a sign announced that there was a campground ahead, but all campers needed a permit to stay. Permit means I would have to drive back to town to pay. I figured that this late in the year nobody would be around so I parked way back in the woods, hoping not to get caught. My van was the only vehicle on the campground and I only saw a couple of cars pass by on the road.

I woke up early and left without incident. I was happy to get off the reservation and back to National Forest land. The weather is going to turn bad in a couple of days so I will check out the area west of Show Low today then move south to lower elevations.

Cliff Dwellings

November 6th, 2012

I make lots of mistakes when I write but this word processor isn’t helping any. Now it has removed all my spacing and clumped everything into one paragraph. Even if my spacing is wrong I’m against having the computer change it.

I’ve put 100 miles on the motorcycle already. Roosevelt Lake is long, and I have been to both ends today. I started out in Tonto National Monument where the park service keeps safe the remains of an old cliff dwelling. Looking back at how these people lived and survived gives me a balance when I think of how we live today. Most of the early inhabitants were lucky to live forty years.

The climb up to the site was harder than I thought it should be; maybe I’ve lost some of my conditioning. I was thankful for information plaques along the way where I could rest a few minutes.

When I returned to the Visitor Center I asked the Ranger if there were other cliff dwelling sites in the area, “Oh, there are hundreds of old ruins all over the area.”
“Are any of them open to the public?” I asked.
“They are all open to the public. You can go anyplace on Federal Forest Land. I just can’t tell you where they are.” She smiled.

She did give me a couple of places to look for dwellings down by the Salt River but I drove to both of them and never found anything. She said there were signs but I think they have been taken down for the season.

Tomorrow I will move on to the northeast. I must have a migrational indicator built in – it’s the direction I walked for 6mo.

Roosevelt Lake

November 6th, 2012

After completing several modifications to my van, I was anxious to get away for a few days and test everything out, kind of a shakedown trip if you will. The best way to find out what works and what doesn’t is to jump in and try it for a while – that’s one thing I learned on the AT. I decided to take a week and explore the area northeast of Mesa, a diverse land rich in history, surrounded by beautiful mountains, and steeped with culture of the mysterious Apache Indians. I resolved to take my time and enjoy everything in slowmotion. So many times when I travel I try to see too much, and when I move on, I always regret that I didn’t linger longer. This strategy seemed to compliment my current configuration of campervan and motorcycle. I figured I could park the van in a central place and tour short, side trips on the bike.I left Mesa early Monday and drove north into the Tonto National Forest. It was an easy drive to Globe, AZ, where I turned northwest onto rt 188, climbed over a couple of passes where the Apache Trail once followed, and arrived early at Roosevelt Lake.  I purchased a couple of camping passes at the visitors center and drove down to the campground to see what my fee bought. The answer was amazingly good. For $3/night I have my pick of well over a hundred sites, each with a picnic table, shelter, a water source, and a level parking spot. There are flush toilets and showers, too. I wish we could have found accomidations like this on the AT. I chose a site that was secluded but still had a view of the lake and parked for the night. Van camping is so easy. All I have to do is park. There is no tent to set up, no water to filter, no air mattress to blow up, and I don’t have to worry about how heavy the food is I’m carrying. I don’t mean to keep comparing everything to my hike on the AT but I think there is a lesson here – if you can survive and be happy with all your possessions in a backpack, it stands to reason that you can be happy with just about any travel vehicle.I unloaded my motorcycle and set off to see Roosevelt Dam. The weather was perfect for a ride along the lake and I dipped the bike into several campground areas, picnic areas, and marinas along the way. There is one free camping area along the north shore of the lake but it seemed to exposed and barren to justify saving three dollars. Maybe if I was just stopping for the night it would be okay.I’m not one to go into detail about statistics of places I visit. If you are one of those people that remembers how many cubic tons of concrete were used, what the span is, when it was built, how many people died building it, and how many thousands of acres of water it holds, you will have to go online and look it up. You won’t get it here. Lets just say it’s a massive structure and let it go at that.Tomorrow I will hike up to the cliff dwellings.  The neat thing about that is I get in free with my Golden Access Pass. 

One Month Later

October 27th, 2012

It has been one month since I finished the trail. Every day I think of some way to tell people what it was like to walk through a chain of mountains on a footpath that extends nearly 2200 miles in length.  I can tell of the misery of bad weather, explain the aches and pain the body endures, try to convey the fears we were confronted with every day, and describe what it’s like to dedicate such a large portion of your life to something no one told you you had to do.  I can tell of the beauty of the mountains, describe what it’s like to be one with nature, live simply with basic needs, and find motivation in moving forward towards the inevitable goal you have set for yourself. After all this time, I still don’t know how to put my AT journey into words that reflect my life for those six months; I’m not sure I even want to.

How has the trail changed me? In the past few years I read numerous journals and books about thruhiking the AT, all with great insight into what a person undergoes on the trail. I thought I was well prepared for what I would encounter out there. I thought I would know how I would feel both during and after the hike. I thought wrong.  Until you hike it yourself, you can never know what it’s like or how you will feel.  It might be selfish to say, but we belong to an exclusive club. I want to share the experience, but in some deep personal way there is a part of me that doesn’t want people to understand; I have something that’s mine, and everyone else should find a peace of their own. Other than knowing I have accomplished something extraordinary and maybe dealing with things a little more patiently, I don’t think I’ve changed at all.

I’m often asked what was the best part of the trail.  I have to say that each day I was out there was better than the day before.  The mountains get more beautiful the further North you travel, the friends you make become closer with each passing day, and every day puts you closer to accomplishing your goal.  There was never a day when I wanted to give up. Sure, some days things didn’t always go as planned, but even those days were better than days when I had to work for a living.  If I was younger and had a healthy body, I may have turned around and hiked south from Maine

Post AT

October 13th, 2012

Tonight I am staying at an RV park, not far from Little Rock, AR. I am headed west for Arizona where I will visit family and do a little sight seeing for a while. I’m not sure when I will arrive in Phoenix but I will not tarry too long.

It was nice to spend some time with Jen, Louie, Vinny, Carmen, Lucy, and Dave and Lisa, and Karen, Zack and Noah. Thank you Louie for all the help getting my van out of storage, and for letting me hang out and recover at your home.

My trip south to dispose of my old van, still waiting for me at the park where the AT begins, went pretty much according to plan. I stopped in Winston-Salem, NC and bought the motorcycle I fell in love with since reading about it on the internet. From there I continued on to GA and sold my old van at a junk yard in Atlanta, road the motorcycle back to the park, and stayed there for the night. The next morning I could not get the motorcycle to start. So I loaded it up and drove 5 hours back to NC to have them fix it.

Of course, when I got to the dealer, it started right up. They kept it overnight to make sure nothing was wrong. I’m hoping it was just a fluke.

I wanted to visit friends I met on the AT that live in the south, but now I’m just feeling that I will have to do it another time. Please know that I think of you even though I can’t stop by.