4/20 – 14.5 miles
This is the last year AT thruhikers will get to hike through GSMNP for free. Next year it will cost $20 – $10/Golden Access pass – for a permit to walk through the park. It goes against the spirit of the AT – every bit of it has always been free – but I guess the Parks are hurting for funds.
On the first day through the park, as we climbed from 1700 ft. to 4700 ft., there were splended views of wild, craggy mountains and deep, vast valleys. As the day wore on, wisps of fog obscured our views, and later in the day, a cold, penetrating, misty fog enveloped everything beyond 50 feet. Soon our high mountain trail became a tunnel in the clouds.
When I reached the first shelter where I planned to stop for the night, I met a Trail Runner (a kind of volunteer trail caretaker) that suggested I go on to the next shelter. It was only three more miles, and it would position me for an easier assault on Rocky Top and Thunderhead Mountains on the coming day.
At the next shelter I discovered six hikers already there and more rolled in throughout the evening until we were packed with 14 people. Part of the regulations in the Smokys is that everyone must use the shelters and only tent if there is no more room.
I’m getting used to sleeping in shelters now. At first I was afraid of offending people, but almost half of the men in each shelter have been snorers, and in some cases, outnumber the non-snorers. Most of the girls carry earplugs as standard equipment.