Sleet!

April 23rd, 2012

– 4/21 . 19 miles
From Spence Field Shelter to Derrick Knob Shelter, we experienced the full challenge the trail could throw at us: steep climbs and descents, rocky traverses, muddy, rutted, and rooted sections, all the while encompassed by a mist that had increasingly turned into a steady rain.

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We donned raingear and pack covers and pushed on until at last, through the swirling mist, the shelter appeared. Once again the shelter was crowded. There was so much gear scattered about it was hard to find a place to cook your meal. I use an alcohol stove and had to find a ledge out of the wind to heat my noodle supper.

We had an industrious older man that managed to get a fire lit and several of us sat huddled close to the flames and talked. A lot of the conversation turns to people on the trail. Most of us have trail names now and are somewhat of a loose knit family. We are always asking if someone has seen some hiker from earlier encounters. Just last night I ran into a young Guy that I hadn’t seen in over two weeks. He told me of another hiker I met about the same time that was trying to catch me. She would read my shelter journal entry and say, “Castaway is still a day ahead of me!”

The next day was a perfect repeat. Walk in the rain, slip in the mud, and sweat beneath rain jackets. Towards afternoon, however, the weather turned particularly ugly. It started off as light sleet, and then cold and strong winds made us careful on the ridges. Soon the ground was covered with a layer of ice and sleet as one by one everyone found the shelter.

One of the hikers had a tarp and I helped him string it over the opening. It was still drafty and cold but infinitly more snug than before. We managed to gather wet wood and get a fire going with the help of a weekenders remaining fuel supply. Most of the hikers warmed themselves by the fire and then retreated to the warmth of their sleeping bags. By 7:30 we were all in our bags.

In the night the temperature dropped like a rock and the wind snapped at the tarp. The girl next to me opened up a space blanket to wrap herself in. I stayed pretty warm except when i rolled around getting comfortable, and I had to keep my face inside my bag. It was a miserable night and most of us were happy to hike out in the morning and get warm. It was time to go to Gatlinburg.

The Great Smoky Mountain NP

April 23rd, 2012

4/20 – 14.5 miles
This is the last year AT thruhikers will get to hike through GSMNP for free. Next year it will cost $20 – $10/Golden Access pass – for a permit to walk through the park. It goes against the spirit of the AT – every bit of it has always been free – but I guess the Parks are hurting for funds.

On the first day through the park, as we climbed from20120420_101123-1 1700 ft. to 4700 ft., there were splended views of wild, craggy mountains and deep, vast valleys. As the day wore on, wisps of fog obscured our views, and later in the day, a cold, penetrating, misty fog enveloped everything beyond 50 feet. Soon our high mountain trail became a tunnel in the clouds.

When I reached the first shelter where I planned to stop for the night, I met a Trail Runner (a kind of volunteer trail caretaker) that suggested I go on to the next shelter. It was only three more miles, and it would position me for an easier assault on Rocky Top and Thunderhead Mountains on the coming day.

At the next shelter I discovered six hikers already there and more rolled in throughout the evening until we were packed with 14 people. Part of the regulations in the Smokys is that everyone must use the shelters and only tent if there is no more room.

I’m getting used to sleeping in shelters now. At first I was afraid of offending people, but almost half of the men in each shelter have been snorers, and in some cases, outnumber the non-snorers. Most of the girls carry earplugs as standard equipment.

Fontana Dam

April 23rd, 2012

4/19 – 15 miles
It was a long downhill hike into Fontana Dam. I stepped out onto the road leading to town at about 3:00 in the afternoon. There was some excitement in town because police cars were streaking up and down the road with their sirens screaming. We learned later that some young hiker had too much to drink and got in a fight with some people at a shelter near Fontana Dam. The people called the police and they came and arrested the drunk kid. He was later released and told not to go onto the Smokys. That would have been the end of it except the kid wouldn’t let it go. He started up the trail into the National Park threatening to use a knife on the people that called the police on him. 20120419_084504-1

News like this travels fast through hikers on the trail and it wasn’t long before the Park police and sheriff’s crew – with help from several tips by thru-hikers – captured him and took him into custody. Now he’s really in trouble. Now he has federal charges against him.

Incidents like this are rare on the trail, but it just goes to show that even on the AT you are not completely insulated from the bad side of human nature.

There are a few hikers dropping off the trail, and it always makes us sad when we hear of someone giving up. I met a young lady a couple of days before reaching Fontana Dam, and hiked off an on with her as we closed the distance to town. As we got to know each other I realized why I was so happy to hike with her – she reminded me of Karen, my soggy-shoe hiking companion. This hike was the first AT expedition without my daughter and I was missing her.

When I hiked out of Fontana Dam, I heard that my new friend could not go on. She had tented alone in the rain the night before, and come close to hypothermia. That, and equipment problems caused her to call her hike off.

Back on the trail

April 19th, 2012

This post is out of order. Sorry! 4/15/12 – 11 miles – The shuttle picked us up at the motel this morning and took us back to the trail. It took almost an hour by the time the elderly driver rounded up passengers at two motels and stopped at two gas stations to get twenty dollars of gas. The first station was closed and it took the driver several minutes to walk into the second store. He shuffled like the old man character that Tim Conway played. One of the hikers jumped out to pump gas or we would still be there.

The hiking was fairly easy most of the day. There was a lot of uphill to start but it was graded well. Once the trail reached the mountain ridges, we had views for miles in all directions. The weather has been great for views. We have been lucky so far.

After a particularly hard climb over 5000 feet, we came to a stone tower on top of Wayah Bald built by the CCC in 1938. It was used as a fire tower for years, and then in 1983, it was renovated into a tourist attraction. On one of the placues that outlined distant mountains, it showed Clingmans Dome in the Smokys 26 miles away. It will take us 80 miles to reach it by trail.

Tonight I am camped with two hikers my age. They are called Saturday (because she thinks every day on the trail is like Saturday) and Beatnik, a retired teacher.

I know, Wilson, it’s time for bed.

Rain!

April 19th, 2012

4/18/12 – 9.5 miles
It rained all night long, sometimes lightly and sometimes at a downpour. Rain spoils everything. I found out my tent has a hole in it someplace. I seam-sealed it before I left but there must be a small pinhole someplace. The inside of my tent is wet along with part of my sleeping bag. I’m thinking about getting a new tent and sending this one home.

I hiked all day with a water laden pack and off and on rain prevented me from getting anything dry, so tonight I am staying in a shelter. I told everyone that I snore and they don’t seem to care. They may not be so forgiving in the morning.

Tomorrow I will hike 13 miles to Fontana Dam and the entry point to the Great Smoky Mountain NP. I may take a day off before I start the park. I need a little rest.